All Play and No Work
In the surf the other day somebody called out – ‘Don’t you have a job?’ It was an arrow, aimed at my self-esteem. I work for myself, mainly on activities that feed my heart and soul, if not my bank...
View ArticleShakespeare on Surfing
‘This music crept by me upon the waters, Allaying both their fury and my passion With its sweet air: thence I have followed it Or it hath drawn me rather.’ When I was at school we studied...
View ArticlePanamania – Night Surfing
‘Surfing is not a sport, it’s a disease’ said my friend Dom the other day, on Facecrack. Here’s an example: It’s our last night in Panama. It’s dark. We’re sleeping. I say sleeping. For fiscal...
View ArticlePanamania – Gnarly Goggles
This footage was shot by Becky after a day surfing on the Isla Burica, a desert island in the far north of Panama. It comes with a song from the Ribbons EP about the upside of heartbreak, and it comes...
View ArticleMetaphorical Enclosure
Since I might as well be hung for a horse as a lamb, and I’m clearly intent on making myself unpopular just in time for Christmas, I decided to clarify a couple of things relating to my last post. I...
View ArticleSurfing Vs Shopping
I hate shopping. Shopping, and by extension the entire human project of reducing this miraculous home of ours into a giant department store and then looting it, is an exercise in enslavement. Surfing,...
View ArticleAll Play and No Work
In the surf the other day somebody called out – ‘Don’t you have a job?’ It was an arrow, aimed at my self-esteem. I work for myself, mainly on activities that feed my heart and soul, if not my bank...
View ArticleShakespeare on Surfing
‘This music crept by me upon the waters, Allaying both their fury and my passion With its sweet air: thence I have followed it Or it hath drawn me rather.’ When I was at school we studied...
View ArticlePanamania – Night Surfing
‘Surfing is not a sport, it’s a disease’ said my friend Dom the other day, on Facecrack. Here’s an example: It’s our last night in Panama. It’s dark. We’re sleeping. I say sleeping. For fiscal...
View ArticlePanamania – Gnarly Goggles
This footage was shot by Becky after a day surfing on the Isla Burica, a desert island in the far north of Panama. It comes with a song from the Ribbons EP about the upside of heartbreak, and it comes...
View ArticleMetaphorical Enclosure
Since I might as well be hung for a horse as a lamb, and I’m clearly intent on making myself unpopular just in time for Christmas, I decided to clarify a couple of things relating to my last post. I...
View ArticleSurfing Vs Shopping
I hate shopping. Shopping, and by extension the entire human project of reducing this miraculous home of ours into a giant department store and then looting it, is an exercise in enslavement. Surfing,...
View ArticleCovid and the Costa Vicentina
My boyfriend and I are in sleeping bags on the tiled floor of a disused swimming pool, counting shooting stars and drinking Vinho do Alentejo from a plastic water bottle, which we filled up in a bar...
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